My idea of a perfect day begins here, in Piazza Santo Spirito.
It’s my favorite piazza in all of Italy, and it’s one I hold close to my heart.
I first discovered it three years ago, on my first visit to Florence, which also happened to be my first-ever solo trip. It was early October, and I’d spent the weekend soaking up as much of the city’s calming energy as possible. It was a much-needed break from Rome’s chaos.
But during my final afternoon in Florence, I began to grow restless, unsure of what to do with myself with 5 hours to spare until my train back to Rome. I had checked out of my room and had been carrying a backpack all afternoon. My back hurt and I was sweaty and my brain couldn’t digest any more Fra Angelico or Giotto. I was suffering from Florence fever and was in a state of pure overwhelm and exhaustion.
Somehow, my aimless wandering led me there, to Piazza Santo Spirito. It was a good sized square across the river in the Oltrarno neighborhood, bordered by trees, restaurants, and bars, and overshadowed by the unfinished, yellow facade of a Brunelleschi-designed basilica.
There was a small market going on that day made up of a few fruit and vegetable vendors and a few artisans selling homemade goods. I circled the square, watching locals have aperitivo while their kids chased each other in the street.
I took a seat on the staircase that leads to the basilica, and I people-watched for nearly two hours. It was a busy spot, constantly in motion as people entered and left the square, on feet and on wheels. Behind them were rows of outdoor tables of bars and restaurant with equally intriguing, living subjects.
One can people-watch anywhere where there are people — but something about this place was special. Out of all the places I visited that weekend, it was the only one that truly felt warm and breathing. It was full of life, and it was completely hypnotizing.
I’ve visited Florence a total of five times now, and each time, I make it a point to visit Piazza Santo Spirito. I’ve been for its Sunday flea market and I’ve been during drizzly February days. I’ve been with three different friends and I’ve also been alone, like on that first visit. But no matter the occasion, the life that flourishes in and around this square never fails to inspire me.
My most recent visit, just a few weeks ago, was twinged with a bit of sadness. It was just two weeks before my final departure from Rome, the city I’ve called home for the past three years. On the train ride there, I couldn’t help but wonder how long it’d be until I’d return to Florence, and to Piazza Santo Spirito.
When I arrived at Santa Maria Novella, Florence’s central train station, I walked across the river and headed to the piazza first thing. I couldn’t think of a better way to start a day in Florence; I couldn’t think of a better way to start a day, period.
I ordered a cappuccino at the Ricchi bar, where they make them extra frothy. I took it outside with me and sipped on it for a while at one of their tables, enjoying the endless show that sat before me.
I watched a soon-to-be bride toss a beach ball at her 10:00 a.m. bachelorette party, and a group of four Americans struggle to find exact change to pay for their coffees. At the same time, I admired the apartments that surround the square, and decided that someday, one of them will be mine.
After finishing my coffee, I walked inside to pay and then took a few laps, soaking it all in. Pigeons sat on the head of Cosimo Ridolfi, and children danced around the fountain that sits in the center of the square. The trees cast shadows in all the right places, guarding some people from the sun and avoiding the ones hoping to tan.
I took a lap inside the basilica, mostly in an attempt to cool down. Its unassuming exterior always makes its inner grandeur feel like a secret gift from Brunelleschi, given only to those who seek more than just his epic dome.
Once I exited the basilica, I took a seat at my spot on the stairs to people-watch for a while. It was slow, breezy, and alive. Just like always.
Studio Josie 